Guess it’s time for my yearly blog post where I go ‘so I’ve been to two craft camps and made some stuff and I never blogged it’.
I really wish I’d managed to blog these sooner, because when I blog right after craft camp I can remember the flavour of it, when I made what, who had input, bad jokes we made, all of that. Now I can barely remember whether I made something in March or June.
March craft camp I started off with some quick and easy knits. I’d just bought the Lady Skater pattern after seeing it all over the internet and noting that it looked good on just about every single person I saw wearing it. I cut the largest size and muslined it (I can’t remember what fabric I used for that though) and ended up adding 3cm to each side, tapering out from the armpits. I like knit tops to be tight but I find it uncomfortable when they cling to my stomach, so that’s where I wanted extra room. From my notes it looks like I made the dress first.
No idea where I bought the black fabric. Spotters I guess? I’d forgotten to bring clear elastic so I used regular old elastic on the waistline. I’m glad I did, it does need the support, but it makes it a little bit less comfortable to wear. I noted at the time that I thought the waistline was too low, but I didn’t go back and take length out because the skirt is hitting me exactly where I like it to. If I made this again, which I would like to because it’s a very nice dress to wear and a really well drafted pattern, I will take a centimetre or so off the body and add two to the skirt length.
As you can see, though, the neckline is too wide. This was the case with all of these but I didn’t figure out how to fix it until the next camp. In fact, I didn’t figure it out at all – Sue suggested that I cut a size or two smaller on the shoulders. It’s wearable as is but I do find myself tugging on it a lot. I cut long sleeves, but when I cut the muslin the sleeves were too long to add the cuffs to, as the pattern required. So I cut them shorter, and then they were somehow shorter this time? So if I’d put the cuffs on they would have just come to my wrist bone. So I just hemmed them, and the bottom hem, with a double needle.
Next up I made a lady skater top in the same fabric.
I adjusted the shoulders by sewing the seam at an angle, so it starts at the same place on the arm side, and then tapers in almost 2cm at the neck side. Surely there is a neater way to say that? Also I added 1cm more to the sides, for a total of 4cm. I left the sleeves at the ‘long’ length and as you see they are over my wrists.
Same problem with the neck, and the top has stretched out, so that it’s a bit daggy to wear now. I have worn it pretty constantly since I made it, to be fair. I still wear it, but mostly under things. Here it is a couple of months ago, the photo is blown out but at least that means you can see it.
Heaps of bagginess at the shoulders. Ugh that’s annoying. At least this one doesn’t bother me when I wear it, only when I look at it. I also made a short sleeved version which got lots of wear until I tucked it in the back of a drawer and forgot about it until I was taking photos of this post. And then I didn’t even take one, because it’s just a black tshirt. Here’s one from camp. Look how smug I am about it!
Again with the poufiness at the shoulder, but since there isn’t as much weight from the arms, and the jersey is pretty light, it doesn’t feel as annoying.
Then I girded my loins and made a shirt for S.
It’s Kwik Sew 3883. I’d made a muslin before camp, and noted some adjustments needed. I don’t recall exactly what, since I can’t find the notes I made. I did adjust the pattern pieces so I know they’re fine. I know I brought the shoulders in a bit, so the back width is smaller. I think maybe it needed shortening as well? The fabric is just cheapo homespun or broadcloth or something from spotters. He wanted a coverup type shirt for when we go to the beach, because he burns easily. So it wasn’t too intimidating because if I mucked it up or it was a bit dodgy that wouldn’t matter too much.
But I think it came out great! (Those collar points could be sharper, now I look at them.) I took my time over it because I wanted to use it to learn how to make shirts properly, so I could make some for me. I was really impressed with this pattern. The instructions were really clear, and suitable I think for a semi-beginner like myself, or even someone slightly less familiar with general garment construction.
I borrowed someone’s machine to do the buttons – Sue’s, I think? Those automatic buttonholers, man. I covet them. My dinky Brother machine at home does pretty well but it only has a manual buttonholer with one of those flimsy plastic efforts, and it is just impossible to do two the same.
The shirt hasn’t been worn more than once because by March it was getting cold, but it got the tick of approval.
I also muslined the By Hand London Anna dress, but there was too much adjustment needed so I abandoned it for the time being. And I finished my Essential Cardigan but I might give that its own post.
For June craft camp I decided to stick with a winning tactic and sew some quick and easy knits first. This time I started with the Penny Pinafore.
I’d cut out a pinny in blue knit fabric at the end of March craft camp, intending to sew it up at home. Obviously that didn’t happen! So I sewed that first at the June craft camp.
I really really love this pattern. Princess seams 4 lyf. I sewed this up with no adjustments, largest size, and it fits like a dream. EXCEPT the dang shoulder issue. You can’t really see it here but it’s super puffy. This one makes it a bit clearer:
Look at all that excess fabric! After I’d sewn this, Sue M suggested the grading down two sizes at the shoulder, and I cut out another one to try it.
MUCH better. Still bra showing, though. I might need to cut in a centimetre or two on the neck side. Almost everyone else I’ve seen make this, their necklines seem much thinner and firmer, even on lighter fabric. I sewed this one really tight because I’d had issues with gaping with the black skaters, but I think it might just be the shape of my shoulders.
I really love these dresses and I wear them all the time. But I wish I’d known about the shoulder thing for the blue dress, because the sleeves bug me. I can see them out of the corner of my eye, and feel them poofing up. I thought they might settle a bit with washing but they have not. It makes me sad because I really love the colour of the blue. I am not really sure about the red one, it’s a bit more orange than I’d normally wear. And somehow it feels a bit pyjama-y. I feel like that would be less of an issue with a darker colour but I’m not sure why I think that. I’ve considered overdying it but I haven’t been bothered yet. I do wear both dresses all the time, though. Both fabrics are a discontinued spotlight knit called ‘seaspray’ or something like that. I bought a whole bunch on clearance, and I wish they still had it because it’s nice and thick, with enough cotton that it’s not too hot for summer, and the recovery is great.
I also made a tunic length penny.
This must have been before the red one, come to think of it, because it has the same sleeve issue. That’s exacerbated by the fabric, which is a merino knit from the Fabric Store. It’s lovely but it doesn’t have much recovery, and constantly slips off my shoulders. I am debating sewing some elastic behind the neckline all the way around, to pull it in, because it doesn’t get much wear which is a shame.
Another reason it doesn’t get much wear is that it’s still A-line shape. I just cut to the ‘tunic length’ line on the pattern. I wish I’d straightened out the princess seams and made it straight because I just don’t really know what to wear it with. I have exactly one pair of jeans, which don’t get much wear, and I am ok with leggings as pants in theory but I just feel uncomfortable with it for me except for photo purposes, apparently. It’s a feeling physically exposed thing, I think, not an aesthetic one. Anyway, mostly I wear this under things, tucked in. Like this:
Here I am wearing my long sleeved skater, and this over the top, tucked in to a skirt, and then I had a jumper over it.
I would like to make up a pattern of this that’s straight from the waist down, because I would like to use the pattern to make some simple knit tops and also perhaps a jumper, like Heather did.
I then made a pair of Juniper pants that were a complete disaster. My last pair are great but the crotch curve is clearly not long enough. I did take in the legs and wear them much more now, although they are still linen so obviously not very warm! But they still creep up my bum a bit so I wanted to try to fix that. I adjusted the pattern and lengthened the crotch curve and scooped it out a bit, like this, and like Patti did here. I sewed them up, with the fly and everything, and tried them on and… they were too small. I clearly needed more room at the front where I couldn’t let them out any more because that’s where the fly was. I looked for them to take a photo of, and also to diagnose what went wrong, but I can’t find them. Maybe they’ve slunk off in shame.
I’m considering trying them again but moving the fly to the side, which might make it easier to adjust especially since I clearly have issues with my crotch depth because of my full belly. Or maybe I’ll pull out Simplicity 3688 and see how they go, since they already have that feature. I’m not going to do either of those things short term, though.
Back to what I made that was a success. When I got S’s shirt home after March camp, I tried it on and found that it was a PERFECT fit, except obviously being too big in the torso. So I decided to make myself one and whack a bust dart in it.
The fabric is this GORGEOUS brushed cotton from DK fabric. I had seen it there ages ago and I didn’t buy it because it wasn’t what I was there for. But I thought about it all the time and when I went back not only was it there, but it was on special for $8 a metre. So I bought something like five metres. I should have enough left for a dress, maybe it wants to be a binge dress? Or maybe a shirtdress? It’s like wearing a hug.
Anyhoo, I made this up exactly as I made up S’s, tried it on, and improvised bust darts. I did make the arms and torse, and nipped in the side seams some arbitrary amount, but didn’t shape them at all. I wanted this to be snuggly and big. I LOVE IT. Although in fact I haven’t worn it at all this winter because I took forever to find buttons I liked, then when I finally sewed them on I put it on over my head and broke the shank off of the second-to-top one. It’s almost like you’re meant to unbutton things when you put them on? Like that’s what buttons are for or something??
Anyway I have new buttons now – plural because I also bought some more for the cuffs, which are buttonless because Caroline kindly lent me her machine to do the buttonholes, but it couldn’t cope with the thickness there. I am debating whether to hand sew buttonholes, take it to a place that does alterations and get them to do it, or just sew press studs on and fake buttons on the top. I’ll probably hand sew them, it’s not like they take that long in the scheme of things. In the meantime it’s crumpled from being in the mending pile, but I did wear it for the rest of the day after taking these photos, over a thermal shirt and a tshirt and with the sleeves cuffed. I’m considering going back and putting a pocket on the front, too.
I also made a version of the shirt in this light voile, also from DKs. I bought enough to underline it with itself but then couldn’t be bothered. It actually isn’t as see through as I remembered – obviously it is still sheer, you can see my bra but I would be ok wearing it like this in summer, or with a cami under to work. It is VERY crumply and wrinkly though.
This one I nipped in at the waist a bit, and I think I shortened the arms a bit more than the flanney. You can see when I stretch they pull, but they pull at the arms not at the shoulders, look at me showing off how I can totally cross my arms in this without it pulling! Such a novelty for me. And they are the correct length when not reaching for the sky.There are still pull lines across the front, I could probably tweak the fit a bit more but you know what? I don’t care. It fits way better than a boughten one would, and it’s comfortable and looks fine. And I don’t want to overfit it and end up not being able to move.
After not having looked at this for ages and then putting it on for photos, I like this far more than I remembered. I think I was put off by the sheerness and wrinkliness making it less practical. But now I’m thinking about making another one of these in the heavier cotton I bought for work shirts, before I attempt the princess line shirt. Although both have the issue of needing to put in buttonholes. I’ve been debating chucking a pleat in the back next time, but I don’t know that it needs it. I need the most width in the upper back/yoke area, so if that’s big enough for my hunched shoulders then the rest will be broad enough for my back.
Both of these just have a turned and rolled hem. The pattern also only calls fro 0.6cm seam allowances. From memory on the sheer one I upped the allowances so I could french seam it, because it was so sheer, but I think that’s nice to do for a shirt anyway so you can roll up the sleeves or whatever without exposing overlocking. The only exposed seams are the sleeves, armholes, and sides, anyway, since everything else is encased in a cuff or the yoke. Also next time I would shift the buttons a bit so that there is one exactly on my bustline where it pulls the most. They’re big enough, just the physics of it means it will always pull and gape a bit there if the button isn’t right in the right place.
And now I am almost all caught up!