I made a mashup!
This one is another unlined Moneta bodice, this time with the pencil skirt from Violet. I’m calling it ‘Violeta’ because the alternative is just ‘Monet’ which is less exciting and also I do not want to be thought of as a ‘full on Monet’. If you think so, keep it to yourself. Also because every time my suggestable brain hears ‘Violeta’ it starts singing ‘Bohemian Rhapsody‘ because apparently it sounds enough like ‘silhouette-a’ and I’m all about that.
I sewed this project a couple weekends ago, trying to jolt myself out of a sewing slump. I’ve still got some lingering craft camp makes to finish off – the Twister dress was one of them, and there’s another M6696 that has some more work to go. And… well, anyway. I was not feeling it. I thought that maybe if I sewed something new, and quick, I’d feel less cranky about my ‘to fix’ pile, which is quite teetering at this point. (It usually lives where I am standing on these photos and I almost did myself an injury moving it out of the way.)
I wear the last Moneta I made at least once a week, twice if I can get away with it. It’s so easy to wear and, since it’s a merino knit, it’s so so nice and warm. Which is good because it’s bloody freezing here right now. I know all you from cold climes will be staring at me in disbelief when I tell you that at an average high of 14°C – which makes it usually about 7°C when I’m walking to and from the train, I am losing my mind with the cold. That’s ok. I’ll forgive you losing your mind over 25°C in summer, because I know it’s all about what you’re acclimatised to. And I am NOT acclimatised to this. At. All. So my primary wardrobe priorities right now are:
- able to wear a thermal under it
- able to wear a jumper over it
- able to easily wear it with tights or knee socks
And my last moneta fit the bill nicely. But I didn’t fancy another Aline skirt, so I thought I’d swap in the Violet pencil skirt.
The fabric is some thick merino/nylon blend from The Fabric Store in Melbourne, I forget what content exactly. I can tell you that it is thick like a ponte, has good recovery but also will pucker if put under too much strain (I had to cut around some peg-induced puckers) and smells like wet dog when washed. I used the same altered neckline as last time, and I remembered to lengthen the bodice.
Because the bodice has a LOT of negative ease, and I was getting to where I go out again, when I lengthened it I also angled it out. I then compared the pattern to the skirt pattern, and cut out the size that was closest to the bodice size, size 22, not thinking too much about it. I did still have to ease the smaller skirt in to the larger bodice.
That gave me quite a baggy skirt. It actually doesn’t look terrible here, not great but not awful, but it felt… ehhhhhn. Like, the bodice is making me feel like a pinup model, and the skirt is making me feel like a baggy elephant. And while I have a lot of respect for elephants, they are not style icons.
You can see that the bodice has enough negative ease for wrinkles to pull out, but the skirt, despite being folded nicely before wearing, is a wrinkled mess, the side seams are puckered, and the gentle outward curve for the hips is sitting like saddlebags. The back was worse.
It’s not helped by the clear elastic I put on the waistband. The fabric is quite heavy so I thought I should but it may have been a mistake – it made the seam even more puckered than it would be otherwise, besides sitting a bit weird in the seam and needing adjusting when I first put it on so it doesn’t stick to me.
I did wear it to work once and it wasn’t awful but I wasn’t feeling like a million bucks. I felt more like, specifically, this elephant (you will not convince me that elephant is in distress. That elephant has promised he will walk rather than go in the pusher, and now he wants a treat, and that’s what’s happening there. I’m particularly into the sibling elephant in that video).
So ANYWAY the next weekend I sat down and nipped in the skirt, quite a bit. I re-adjusted my traced skirt pattern, taking it down from a 22 at the waist to somewhere between an 18 and a 16, as per my measurements for the pattern.
Here is the intial adjusting, to about a size 18
Still some ease. I asked S and he said ‘yes make it tighter’ which is what he ALWAYS says. But I did anyway.
Yes. Good. I also took a wedge out for the back seam, and it still pools a bit but it’s MUCH better. I don’t look like I have a huge weird fabric scar on my butt, and that can only be a good thing. I should remember to go back and adjust my pattern pieces…
There are the sideseams, complete with a little pucker where I took it in, which I might eventually hand sew down but I also might not. I’d initially put self-drafted pockets in but of course they had to come out with the taking it in so drastically. Also, although I do love pockets, and this knit is thick enough to support them, it’s also drapey enough that they messed with the line of the skirt. I also took the sleeves up since they were sitting literally on my elbow.
It was all sewed with lightning stitch except for I forgot to change the setting when I sewed the new skirt seam so that’s a straight stitch. I’ll just fix it if it pops. The hems are twin needled and I also twin needle topstitched the neckline, which was maybe a mistake because it’s bubbly, but I think perhaps that’s just how this fabric do.
Actually you can see an annoying thing in this photo. Stare, if you will, at my boobs, and you will see faint lines running through the fabric. About 1m of the fabric I bought had these horizontal runs, and I managed to cut the bodice pieces out of it – after having to recut because I had a peg-ripple where a nipple would be. So this is LESS of a bad look than that, at least. And it’s not so bad that I am going to fix it but man, I wish I’d noticed it before sewing.
And here you can see my cat modelling it for me. As you can see, he loves it almost as much as I do, which is a lot.