Happy New Year everyone! I hope your 2015 was a good one, and that 2016 is going to be even better!
I go back to work on Monday so of course the last few days have been a bit of a frenzy of getting the last few jobs I wanted done before I go back (with considerable breaks for lolling around in between). It’s also cooled down enough to get into the craft room, so I’ve been churning out some quick projects! The two main tasks left for me are sewing and lining a bunch of curtains, and putting my cutting table together properly. The first is deadly boring and tedious and annoying, and the second involves sorting through stash and finding things that are MUCH more interesting and DEFINITELY have to be sewn. Immediately.
The first of these is a Moneta in some more rayon knit from spotlight. I bought this after I made my Ottobre Women’s ‘Tennesse’ out of a different print in the same fabric. I expressed a lot of doubts about that make at the time but it turns out it’s perfect for summer days at home, and I wear it all the time. That said, it’s still poorly finished so I only wear it on ‘home days’. So I thought I’d have a go at a more polished dress.
I cut this dress across the stretch, because I wanted the stripes running horizontally. It has about the same amount of stretch both ways, anyway – or almost. I should have given myself maybe an extra 1/2 cm on the side seams, it’s a little snug around the stomach area, but not too much. Just enough to notice. The bodice pattern I’ve adjusted to be XL at the bust and L everywhere else, and I cut the L in the skirt. The sleeves are the L sleeve cap and the XL sleeve width.
I thought I’d give the actual skirt of the moneta a go, since I’ve made the bodice a few times but not the skirt. I found the shirring with clear elastic quite difficult – I believe this has been mentioned by others. I just couldn’t get the elastic to stretch as much as it needed to, and ended up something like 1/4 of the circumference short. If I made the skirt again I’d use an un-measured piece of elastic to gather, and then gather again onto the bodice.
The fabric is a dream to wear, but a bit of a nightmare to cut out. It’s slippery as all get out, besides having stretched out when hung on the line after pre-washing. So I tried to pattern match, or at least keep the pattern straight, and sort of didn’t quite manage. The droopy line along the front of the skirt makes me a bit nuts, but it’s not as obvious in person, I don’t think. It also depends a bit on how it’s sitting over my stomach, how obvious it is. Because of the tightness of the bodice it does tend to ride up slightly.
And the back is totally sloped but oh well. I like the print enough that I think it overcomes the annoyance of the wonky lines. The bodice was initially MUCH worse, the bottom of one side had stretched out and so it was very droopy and weird and super obvious with the stripes. I had to unpick it and fix it, which was a pain with this fabric. My machine also had a bit of trouble with this, it couldn’t keep the tension using the stretch stitches so I just used a zigzag for all the seams and hems. I did dig out my walking foot for this, I’d been putting off using it because I was scared of it but it took me all of 30 seconds to work it out. When will I learn? And it did make the sewing process much easier. The neck binding is done the same way as the Kirsten tee I made last, but with something like a 2″ binding this time, which worked much better.
So there we are! I think this took me about three hours to make, and a very satisfying make it was, too. I still can’t over how well the bodice for this dress is drafted. It’s well and truly a TNT pattern for me, these days.