So here are my Ginger jeans! This will be a long, picture heavy post, be warned!

Most of you will be aware I live a happily pants-free lifestyle. Not nudist (too cold! Too sunburny! What if I sit on something?) but all skirts all the time – except on weekends when I live in store bought yoga pants. However this time of year is so cold and I hate stockings and tights so much, I start to think that some work appropriate pants might not be a bad idea. I have all kinds of body/gender/appearance issues with pants which make me pretty wary of putting a lot of effort into fitting them and then finding I dislike them. But I had heard such great things about the Ginger Jeans that I thought I’d give them a go.

I can definitively say that when it comes to pants making, I am as clumsy as a camel. However! I triumphed in the end.

Actually these went together pretty easy, in essentials, but because I was changing things up they needed a fair bit of tweaking. The fabric is ponte I got on sale at spotlight. I figured it’s about the right stretch factor and I didn’t care if I wrecked it or didn’t wear it. I had 2m and I have almost a half a metre left because of my very wide fabric and from not doing back pockets. I wanted slim black pants because I felt that they were most likely to fit into my existing style and not make me feel like a lumpy teen who is trying to work out what to wear (exclusively jeans and Tshirts for years, and it worked ok as camouflage which was what I was going for, really. I find wearing jeans now makes me feel uncomfortable and not like myself).

I wanted to make a highwaisted pair that would look vaugely retroish, and I did not want to muck around with a zip. My number 1 problem with pants (apart from mild dysphoria, I am not kidding about that part) is that my stomach squishes when I sit down so that + jeans button = angry red welts and extreme discomfort. I toyed with the idea of a side zip but in the end I thought that I would just go elastic waisted the first time to try them out. I had seen Gillian do the same and it solved a lot of my ‘difficult waist’ fitting issues and I also figured it would be easier to fit the crotch curve if I didn’t have to set and reset a zip.

And then the villagers all burst into song…

To adjust the pattern to take the fly out I just folded that part of the pattern out. I wasn’t sure what to do with the pocket stays so I cut them on the fold, overlapping to take out seam allowance. I figured since they get caught in the fly they would be about the right size. WRONG. I don’t know if I used the wrong piece or misunderstood the way the pockets go together – I found that part of the pattern hard to follow because I was just skimming along and for complicated things I tend to need to do to understand them – but the pockets were way too big and had a fold in the middle. I just unpicked them from the waistband and chopped them off in the centre to make them hanging-loose pocketbags. The stays are some stash fabric with a slight stretch – not 100% sure what it is but it’s definitely cotton something.

… and dance.

I cut a straight size 20 which from the size chart would be a bit small for me but I figured negative ease would be fine. When I first tried them on they were HUGE around my waist. I did some tweaking and pulling and found that the side seams were balanced and the hips and legs fit how I wanted them to. All the excess was in the rise. I ended up taking 2″ from the front, tapering to about 1″ at the crotch, and then back out to four whole inches off of the back. Yikes! I’ve since seen a lot of people, including Heather, saying that the larger sizes run big. It’s a shame as it makes it hard to fit yourself and also means people who might fit into them won’t try them.They do fit my hips perfectly though, which I find a bit strange as the issue I have with bought pants is if the hips fit then the waistband is too tight!

I’ve adjusted the pattern pieces with my changes, but not my last extra skimming off of the rise so I have to go back and do that. I kept adjusting and sucking the front crotch in more until I had taken a good 1″ off all the way down. There’s still a bit of weirdness at the base there – I looked around online and saw that a fair few people have that too, but of course it’s a bit obfuscated if you have a fly.

Some weirdness

I’m not sure how I would fix that (hit me up if you know!) but I’d rather have that little pooch than the camel toe I get with most RTW pants so I can live with it. I think I could do with taking a 1/2″ fold at mid-rise as it seems to want to creep down and pooch a bit there, so I’ll do that next time.

The back is creeping up my bum a bit – it’s only very bad when I stand like above (and it’s more visible there because the shiny fabric + exact light conditions are showing it up. I think next time I need to add width to the inseam. I don’t know enough about pants but I suspect that would help with some of the inner thigh pulling, too? I did basically no fitting of the back because I pretty much couldn’t see it. I was sewing exclusively at night and black pants and low light meant no mirror viewing was really possible. I just made sure they were comfy and I could sit in them and went for it.

I’m really glad I had left the fly off so that I could do all this adjusting! For the waist, I cut the waistband as drafted except I put it on the fold the other way – so instead of joining at the front it joins at the back, folding out what I approximated to be the length of the overlap. I then attached it as I would a regular waistband – band to yoke, facing of band to front of band. Then I zigzagged some elastic in to the facing part, closed the yoke in and topstitched it (not very neatly – I was ready to be done at that point and I suspect this pair will mostly be worn with tops untucked). The elastic is the exact size of my waist when standing, so that at rest there is no wrinkling or anything – it’s more that it expands easily when I sit but then doesn’t sag out afterwards. I used 1″ elastic as that’s what I had that fit neatly in the band. I suspect I have already popped some of the topstitching stitches from getting it on and off, as they’re straight stitch and not very flexible! I probably should have used lightning stitch but I used straight throughout. I did take some detail shots but they all came out blurry and weird so I have nothing to show you, sorry!

One last butt shot.
Ok I lied
This one doesn’t even count as a butt shot. I don’t know what you mean.

After this I still spent a bunch of time fiddling with the pockets. The instructions have you either french seam, or serge and sew so that the serging is inside the pocket, and the clean finish is outside of the pocket. You can see what I mean in the sewalong. I found this made them bulky and I had a very visible and unattractive line where the pocket was. I spent some time moping about it because I have feels about my stomach. I think the issue is that the pocket happens to end right where my stomach is the biggest and also the lumpiest, on the edge of the ridge where my belly is dissected with underwear/waistband lines. I thought about my boughten jeans and how they have the serged edges on the outside, so I went back and unpicked the bottom seam and sewed it that way.

Tada! Lumpy pockets!

I also found the pockets quite shallow. I can’t fit my whole hand in there, and I think if they were longer they would have a more effective stay effect. I found the shallowness a bit weird on a high-waisted pant but perhaps that’s more flattering on people without big stomachs? I don’t know. Anyway if I make these again (which I intend to) I will lengthen the pockets by a few inches so they hit me in a better place and have enough room for my phone, as well as fitting the stay properly so I can have it all the way across my stomach, which I think will reduce how wrinkled they look and minimise any tucked-in tops’ wrinkles showing through. I didn’t bother making the coin pocket.

So once this was all done and I was pleased with my pants I grabbed a free minute and had a quick photoshoot. When I got the images off my camera I felt bad. I had just thrown on whatever shoes and a plain white tshirt so you could see the pants properly and I just felt weird and lumpy and strange. I might have well been wearing a chicken costume for how comfortable I felt. A lot of this is complicated feelings about my body and presentation that I can only barely articulate. I spent a week feeling glum whenever I thought about it. I did spend some time looking at images I liked of people wearing pants and decided that the main issue was the length. I had hemmed them at regular pant-length because I wanted these pants for warmth, dammit, and cold ankles wasn’t part of my plan! However they were actually hemmed a bit too short for that, and shifted around when I moved or sat, so they lookedΒ like I’d grown out of them. And all the photos I liked had people with cropped pants. So I decided I’d crop them and see how I liked them.

I basted them higher and they looked a bit like this:

tumblr_inline_mqfb5qmRSk1qz4rgp.jpg
Look at these space dorks and their dumb short pants. That one guy is so embarrassed by his short pants that he’s passed out! And look how smug that lady is.Β I guess I’d look smug if I had a Science blue space nightie and matching slippers.

So I unpicked everything and tapered the legs in about 1cm each side at the bottom. I wasn’t very precise about so hopefully they’ll be fine. They certainly look better at least to my eye! Then I thought about how to style them for photos. Usually I go for ‘how to make the details the most visible’ but honestly, you’ve all seen ginger jeans before. I wanted a confidence boost. I pulled this top out of my wardrobe – I bought it in Bali last year and haven’t worn it because I don’t have anything it goes with! A match made in heaven. I hope you can still see the pants properly – I pulled it up for most of the photos so hopefully it’s clear. I’m still working out what shoes I like with it too. The white ones are a bit of a look, which I’m a bit unsure about, but I love the shoes and if I wear them with my shirtdresses I look too much like a nurse! It would be good if they could get some wear.

Sitting view, v important

I grabbed some rare winter sunshine to take these photos, and had a lot of fun doing it. How do you like my teal wall? I’m taking advantage because soon my bed will be where I’m standing, no room for photos! Can’t wait to go be able to stare at this lovely colour every night, just as soon as the paint stink dissipates. Before the teal it was beige. Floor to ceiling beige. Nightmare.

Minimal downcreep at the back when I sit

I was very nervous when I went to look at this second batch of photos but luckily I love them! They made me feel really good, and good about the pants (especially with a shirt long enough to hide the weird butt business). The power of styling! Must remember that. Utilitarianism and practicality is all well and good but it only goes so far. It also made me realise that part of the problem was that I’d created a wardrobe orphan! My general style silhouette is wide bottoms, slim tops. So none of my tops worked with this because I only feel comfortable if that’s flipped – slim bottom, bulkier top – like a shirt or an oversized jumper. I do try so hard not to make wardrobe orphans, too! Well at least it has one matching top. I suspect these will get more wear in warmer weather anyway, because the ponte is quite thin, so the thin lawn top is perfect. Honestly I never find pants as warm as leggings/stockings + skirt, unless they are going to be, like… flannel lined wool pants I guess. But I will have to think about sewing some shirts for these pants, especially as I am planning more. I have some thin denim to make some jeans-like pants – I’m not interested in the full jeans thing but some slim denim pants with a side zip sound like a go. And I would like to try the wider leg in some bengaline I have. Perhaps merging the high waist with the wider leg? Or perhaps I’ll muslin the lower waist and see how I like it. I’d also like to compare them with my Colette Juniper pants which I never wear because the rise is too short, and see what the shape of the rises are like compared to one another.

I guess I do this pose a lot, huh?

Phew! That’s a lot of words (and photos!) Everyone who stuck with me the whole way gets a gold star.

Here’s your TL;DR: I made pants, and I liked it! They would be a pretty quick project now I’ve fitted them (especially with no zip!) and for someone used to circle skirts they take up a very modest amount of fabric. I’m pleased I tried something different, and very excited to have a pants pattern in my arsenal.

Advertisements

30 thoughts on “Teacher’s Pet trousers

  1. Oh well done!!! Good on your persistence and working through issues-and now the possibilities are endless! I think they look awesome, and I love the outfit. Sorry, can’t help with any fitting issues- I do think with a firmer /thicker ponte fabric, though, you may get less wrinkles?

    1. Thank you so much! I do think a lot of the wrinkles – and how visible they are – is to do with the fabric. It’s not especially firm, and it’s a bit shiny so it does highlight them. I’m always a bit scared of pants because it seems so hard to get a ‘perfect’ fit but in the end, these fit better than any I could buy and I’m pretty happy with that.

  2. CRAFTIES YOU ABSOLUTE BABE YOU LOOK FABULOUS!!!!! as in my breath literally caught when I scrolled down to the first picture. those pants! you in those pants! amazing!!

  3. This looks awesome! The pants are super flattering on you! I like the top too πŸ™‚
    Thank you for sharing the photos. I think I need to make one for Fall πŸ™‚

    1. Thank you! It’s a bit of a different silhouette than I’m used to so it’s nice to hear encouragement! I think it looks nice too. I’d love to see yours if you make a pair!

  4. These are some of my favorite Ginger pants I’ve seen– the fabric and the styling are a match made to be. I love them with the black pumps, but those white creeper loafers– dang, it’s such a good combo! They reiterate the retro feel of the pants and give the whole thing a rockabilly vibe. I love it. Thanks for sharing this make, and the story behind it– I look forward to seeing more pants in the future, they really suit you πŸ˜€

  5. What everyone else said. Seriously these are awesome and you look wonderful. I totally get the “took some not so good photos and totally depressed with how I look” feeling. But you have really nailed it with this lot. Also love the teal wall.

    1. Thank you! πŸ™‚ I do try to be practical because I want the blog as a record of what the things actually look like, but that doesn’t mean I have to look terrible, too! I’m glad I am old and wise enough now (hahaha!) to know that it means I took some bad photos, not that I really DO look terrible!

      I’m a bit in love with the teal wall, to be honest. I am going to miss having it to take photos against!

  6. Those pants look great Kate. I love stretchy pants, no zip, no pockets or maybe on the back, so comfortable. It’s great to have a rest from the tights or an option for the mornings when they are too hard. Have recently discovered jeggings like jeans but with the comfort of leggings. Grace is not allowed to say I’m too old for them!

    1. Thank you! Stretchy pants are the best pants XD You’re never too old for stretchy pants, I don’t think. Or any clothing for that matter, as long as you’re comfortable in it! Grace can keep her opinions to herself πŸ˜›

  7. They look so great on you!!! I’m trying to build up a better work wardrobe (through Stitch Fix, since I don’t sew) and the trying on new things & taking pictures & really thinking about how I look & how things fit for the first time in years is really keeping a lot of my own body issues on my mind lately. You’re so right that trying a different styling trick or something like that makes all the difference in how you feel about what you’re wearing.

    1. Thank you! Good luck with the wardrobe building. It’s hard work! I keep discovering new body issues that I hadn’t thought about, new things that make me uncomfortable or working out what makes me feel and look good. I hope you have some luck and find some things that work for you!

  8. I am so so behind on blog reading, but I wanted to pop in and say I love these! I want to make a pair of super stretchy Gingers with an elastic waistband because I have the same issue with everything spreading out when I sit down, and it’s why I love dresses so much. I know that how I feel about how I look is very personal and can’t be influenced by other people’s opinions, so this may be a totally worthless thing to say, but I think you look fabulous in these pants in all the photos!

    1. Thank you! I will always accept compliments! πŸ˜› I have yet to wear them out of the house because I don’t have a weather-appropriate top that goes with them, so I suspect that I will feel a bit nervous for the first few times just because it’s a bit of a different look for me. It helps to keep the compliments in mind πŸ™‚

  9. Your gingers look great, and with that long top in the first pic – perfect! A very flattering silhouette. Gorgeous!

    1. Thank you so much! I need to make a denim pair I think because they’d get weekend wear. It’s actually too cold for me to wear these atm – I get cold ankles! I really love how they look though so I’m just waiting for a warmer day, we should be getting some soon…

  10. These look fantastic on you! Well done. I apologize if I missed a link or a sentence somewhere, but can we talk about that top? What is it? I love it.

    1. Thank you! I bought the top in Bali on my holiday last year. I really like the shape, although it needs a bit more bust room. And now that I think about it I did actually take it in at the sides to give it some shape – before it was just a bit rectangle. I’m thinking about taking a pattern from it.

Whadya reckon?

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s