Here is another in my discouraging backlog of ‘fine but not quite right’ – a pj/lounging set made up of Carolyn pj shorts and a springfield hack. I’ll cover the springfield at the end, since I’ve made a similar hack before. But first, the shorts!
As I keep yammering about, I’m trying to up my loungewear game. I thought a pair of nice pj pants might help matters, so I decided to give the Carolyn pjs from Closet Case Files a go.
I made the largest size in these, which is what my measurements indicate. I’ve misplaced my notes on these so I’m guessing a little bit about the specific adjustments I made. Hopefully I cover everything. I muslined these up first because my experience with the ginger jeans led me to believe this crotch curve might not work for me. I was definitely correct in that suspicion.
I had way WAY too much fabric at the waist and, like the gingers, this was all focussed at the centre seams. When I pinched it out the side seams sat perfectly. I ended up taking almost the same adjustments as the gingers – 2″ total out of the front crotch and I think not quite 4″ out of the back. I was originally going to just elide the faux fly but in the end I chopped it off and reattached it to my adjusted pattern, so it is there. I didn’t bother unpicking the basting on these though.
I also found the back of the legs way waaaaaaaay too wide. Like just sticking way out and I knew that would also result in chub rub, from too much fabric at the inseam. I slashed and folded out some amount of width – I think maybe 1″? The fronts were fine. I couldn’t find any other larger ladies who have made the shorts – I suspect in full pants I would appreciate that extra room in the back, but in the shorts it was just ridiculous. I also lengthened them 1.5″ to get them below where my thighs touch, to reduce chub rub. I had to adjust the cuff as well – the bottom of the shorts is the same size as the cuff so I just measured and chopped.
I was a bit worried they’d be too tight across the bum – there’s just a slight bit of pulling there – but actually they’re ok. They are snug though, and I would consider doing a full butt adjustment next time – one like this or this, not like the colette blog one which adds to the inseam. I don’t need more width at the inseam I need it across the widest part of my butt, basically in the middle of the pattern piece. You can see the pulling more clearly in some of the photos below. It’s ok for this pair – I have movement room and I’m not worried about busting them or anything but I think it’s worth fixing in the next go round.
I was feeling a bit (unreasonably) cranky about the amount of changes I had to make to these, but in the end, I absolutely love them! They feel elegant and comfy at the same time, even though they’re just a simple pair of shorts. The only thing letting them down is that the elastic I chose is a bit firm and I should have made it a bit longer. They are fine, but they are firm enough that I will wake up in the middle of the night needing to go to the bathroom, because they are pressing on my bladder. Not ideal. I don’t think I’ll bother going back and making these looser (the elastic will get a bit less rigid over time anyway), but when I make this pattern again I’ll make sure I don’t go too nuts on that negative ease. I’m also not sure I’d make the pockets again – they’re a bit too tight to use – too much thigh! They add a nice touch though, I guess.
I am definitely keen to make a longer pair, and I want to make the matching top – I’d like to make it out of this same fabric but I need to see if I can get more. I’ll also be planning a warm pair when it gets colder again. I am also seriously seriously considering just making them up in a linen or something and wearing them as actual pants. Do you think I can justify them as fashion pyjamas? I’m on trend! I also think the shirt would make a nice casual camp-shirt style top if you made the collar pointy. Tell me, dear readers – am I losing my grip or is a shirt a shirt?
As for the top I made to go with this, I did the same Springfield/lakeside hack I’ve done before:
I couldn’t find the same pieces I used before, though, so I had to re-draft them. I don’t know if I did something different or if it’s just the vagaries of fabric differences, but there are… issues with this one. The back flaps definitely don’t overlap as much as my last one did, and it drags the yoke down. I think it needs to have a wedge taken out of that yoke – you can see the extra room in it – and the flaps need to overlap much further. I considered unpicking this to do that but honestly I don’t think I’ll bother. Although this is lovely to lounge in (and gets a big thumbs up from S), I do always feel a bit exposed in it. I think if I can find more of this fabric I might just replace the back overlaps with the regular Springfield back. That way I will also be able to sleep in it without getting myself all tangled!
I actually thought through the finishing on this one and bound the bottom edge all in one. But unfortunately by the time I got to the neck and arms, I had run out of fabric for binding – I cut one of the backs wrong and had to recut so I was short. Instead of doing something sensible like using a different fabric for the binding, I cut what I had in half so it was 1″ instead of 2″ and did THE dodgiest binding job that has ever been in the whole world. It’s truly awful, flips out, is fuzzy… So essentially, this top is pretty much unwearable until I fix that. I mean, it’s fine. It won’t fall apart or anything. But I can’t look at it without wincing. This is why I don’t like to sew on a deadline – I tend towards rushing enough anyway, I don’t need the help. I was trying to finish this to take with me to Bali and I shouldn’t have.
I did wear this a bit in Bali but I think the top is going to be put away until I can source more fabric to fix that back. I’m glad I tried this style but in the end, I just don’t think it’s for me. The original Springfield back will make it perfect pjs though. At least it goes with my robe?
So here are my Ginger jeans! This will be a long, picture heavy post, be warned!
Most of you will be aware I live a happily pants-free lifestyle. Not nudist (too cold! Too sunburny! What if I sit on something?) but all skirts all the time – except on weekends when I live in store bought yoga pants. However this time of year is so cold and I hate stockings and tights so much, I start to think that some work appropriate pants might not be a bad idea. I have all kinds of body/gender/appearance issues with pants which make me pretty wary of putting a lot of effort into fitting them and then finding I dislike them. But I had heard such great things about the Ginger Jeans that I thought I’d give them a go.
I can definitively say that when it comes to pants making, I am as clumsy as a camel. However! I triumphed in the end.
Actually these went together pretty easy, in essentials, but because I was changing things up they needed a fair bit of tweaking. The fabric is ponte I got on sale at spotlight. I figured it’s about the right stretch factor and I didn’t care if I wrecked it or didn’t wear it. I had 2m and I have almost a half a metre left because of my very wide fabric and from not doing back pockets. I wanted slim black pants because I felt that they were most likely to fit into my existing style and not make me feel like a lumpy teen who is trying to work out what to wear (exclusively jeans and Tshirts for years, and it worked ok as camouflage which was what I was going for, really. I find wearing jeans now makes me feel uncomfortable and not like myself).
I wanted to make a highwaisted pair that would look vaugely retroish, and I did not want to muck around with a zip. My number 1 problem with pants (apart from mild dysphoria, I am not kidding about that part) is that my stomach squishes when I sit down so that + jeans button = angry red welts and extreme discomfort. I toyed with the idea of a side zip but in the end I thought that I would just go elastic waisted the first time to try them out. I had seen Gillian do the same and it solved a lot of my ‘difficult waist’ fitting issues and I also figured it would be easier to fit the crotch curve if I didn’t have to set and reset a zip.
To adjust the pattern to take the fly out I just folded that part of the pattern out. I wasn’t sure what to do with the pocket stays so I cut them on the fold, overlapping to take out seam allowance. I figured since they get caught in the fly they would be about the right size. WRONG. I don’t know if I used the wrong piece or misunderstood the way the pockets go together – I found that part of the pattern hard to follow because I was just skimming along and for complicated things I tend to need to do to understand them – but the pockets were way too big and had a fold in the middle. I just unpicked them from the waistband and chopped them off in the centre to make them hanging-loose pocketbags. The stays are some stash fabric with a slight stretch – not 100% sure what it is but it’s definitely cotton something.
I cut a straight size 20 which from the size chart would be a bit small for me but I figured negative ease would be fine. When I first tried them on they were HUGE around my waist. I did some tweaking and pulling and found that the side seams were balanced and the hips and legs fit how I wanted them to. All the excess was in the rise. I ended up taking 2″ from the front, tapering to about 1″ at the crotch, and then back out to four whole inches off of the back. Yikes! I’ve since seen a lot of people, including Heather, saying that the larger sizes run big. It’s a shame as it makes it hard to fit yourself and also means people who might fit into them won’t try them.They do fit my hips perfectly though, which I find a bit strange as the issue I have with bought pants is if the hips fit then the waistband is too tight!
I’ve adjusted the pattern pieces with my changes, but not my last extra skimming off of the rise so I have to go back and do that. I kept adjusting and sucking the front crotch in more until I had taken a good 1″ off all the way down. There’s still a bit of weirdness at the base there – I looked around online and saw that a fair few people have that too, but of course it’s a bit obfuscated if you have a fly.
I’m not sure how I would fix that (hit me up if you know!) but I’d rather have that little pooch than the camel toe I get with most RTW pants so I can live with it. I think I could do with taking a 1/2″ fold at mid-rise as it seems to want to creep down and pooch a bit there, so I’ll do that next time.
The back is creeping up my bum a bit – it’s only very bad when I stand like above (and it’s more visible there because the shiny fabric + exact light conditions are showing it up. I think next time I need to add width to the inseam. I don’t know enough about pants but I suspect that would help with some of the inner thigh pulling, too? I did basically no fitting of the back because I pretty much couldn’t see it. I was sewing exclusively at night and black pants and low light meant no mirror viewing was really possible. I just made sure they were comfy and I could sit in them and went for it.
I’m really glad I had left the fly off so that I could do all this adjusting! For the waist, I cut the waistband as drafted except I put it on the fold the other way – so instead of joining at the front it joins at the back, folding out what I approximated to be the length of the overlap. I then attached it as I would a regular waistband – band to yoke, facing of band to front of band. Then I zigzagged some elastic in to the facing part, closed the yoke in and topstitched it (not very neatly – I was ready to be done at that point and I suspect this pair will mostly be worn with tops untucked). The elastic is the exact size of my waist when standing, so that at rest there is no wrinkling or anything – it’s more that it expands easily when I sit but then doesn’t sag out afterwards. I used 1″ elastic as that’s what I had that fit neatly in the band. I suspect I have already popped some of the topstitching stitches from getting it on and off, as they’re straight stitch and not very flexible! I probably should have used lightning stitch but I used straight throughout. I did take some detail shots but they all came out blurry and weird so I have nothing to show you, sorry!
After this I still spent a bunch of time fiddling with the pockets. The instructions have you either french seam, or serge and sew so that the serging is inside the pocket, and the clean finish is outside of the pocket. You can see what I mean in the sewalong. I found this made them bulky and I had a very visible and unattractive line where the pocket was. I spent some time moping about it because I have feels about my stomach. I think the issue is that the pocket happens to end right where my stomach is the biggest and also the lumpiest, on the edge of the ridge where my belly is dissected with underwear/waistband lines. I thought about my boughten jeans and how they have the serged edges on the outside, so I went back and unpicked the bottom seam and sewed it that way.
I also found the pockets quite shallow. I can’t fit my whole hand in there, and I think if they were longer they would have a more effective stay effect. I found the shallowness a bit weird on a high-waisted pant but perhaps that’s more flattering on people without big stomachs? I don’t know. Anyway if I make these again (which I intend to) I will lengthen the pockets by a few inches so they hit me in a better place and have enough room for my phone, as well as fitting the stay properly so I can have it all the way across my stomach, which I think will reduce how wrinkled they look and minimise any tucked-in tops’ wrinkles showing through. I didn’t bother making the coin pocket.
So once this was all done and I was pleased with my pants I grabbed a free minute and had a quick photoshoot. When I got the images off my camera I felt bad. I had just thrown on whatever shoes and a plain white tshirt so you could see the pants properly and I just felt weird and lumpy and strange. I might have well been wearing a chicken costume for how comfortable I felt. A lot of this is complicated feelings about my body and presentation that I can only barely articulate. I spent a week feeling glum whenever I thought about it. I did spend some time looking at images I liked of people wearing pants and decided that the main issue was the length. I had hemmed them at regular pant-length because I wanted these pants for warmth, dammit, and cold ankles wasn’t part of my plan! However they were actually hemmed a bit too short for that, and shifted around when I moved or sat, so they looked like I’d grown out of them. And all the photos I liked had people with cropped pants. So I decided I’d crop them and see how I liked them.
I basted them higher and they looked a bit like this:
So I unpicked everything and tapered the legs in about 1cm each side at the bottom. I wasn’t very precise about so hopefully they’ll be fine. They certainly look better at least to my eye! Then I thought about how to style them for photos. Usually I go for ‘how to make the details the most visible’ but honestly, you’ve all seen ginger jeans before. I wanted a confidence boost. I pulled this top out of my wardrobe – I bought it in Bali last year and haven’t worn it because I don’t have anything it goes with! A match made in heaven. I hope you can still see the pants properly – I pulled it up for most of the photos so hopefully it’s clear. I’m still working out what shoes I like with it too. The white ones are a bit of a look, which I’m a bit unsure about, but I love the shoes and if I wear them with my shirtdresses I look too much like a nurse! It would be good if they could get some wear.
I grabbed some rare winter sunshine to take these photos, and had a lot of fun doing it. How do you like my teal wall? I’m taking advantage because soon my bed will be where I’m standing, no room for photos! Can’t wait to go be able to stare at this lovely colour every night, just as soon as the paint stink dissipates. Before the teal it was beige. Floor to ceiling beige. Nightmare.
I was very nervous when I went to look at this second batch of photos but luckily I love them! They made me feel really good, and good about the pants (especially with a shirt long enough to hide the weird butt business). The power of styling! Must remember that. Utilitarianism and practicality is all well and good but it only goes so far. It also made me realise that part of the problem was that I’d created a wardrobe orphan! My general style silhouette is wide bottoms, slim tops. So none of my tops worked with this because I only feel comfortable if that’s flipped – slim bottom, bulkier top – like a shirt or an oversized jumper. I do try so hard not to make wardrobe orphans, too! Well at least it has one matching top. I suspect these will get more wear in warmer weather anyway, because the ponte is quite thin, so the thin lawn top is perfect. Honestly I never find pants as warm as leggings/stockings + skirt, unless they are going to be, like… flannel lined wool pants I guess. But I will have to think about sewing some shirts for these pants, especially as I am planning more. I have some thin denim to make some jeans-like pants – I’m not interested in the full jeans thing but some slim denim pants with a side zip sound like a go. And I would like to try the wider leg in some bengaline I have. Perhaps merging the high waist with the wider leg? Or perhaps I’ll muslin the lower waist and see how I like it. I’d also like to compare them with my Colette Juniper pants which I never wear because the rise is too short, and see what the shape of the rises are like compared to one another.
Phew! That’s a lot of words (and photos!) Everyone who stuck with me the whole way gets a gold star.
Here’s your TL;DR: I made pants, and I liked it! They would be a pretty quick project now I’ve fitted them (especially with no zip!) and for someone used to circle skirts they take up a very modest amount of fabric. I’m pleased I tried something different, and very excited to have a pants pattern in my arsenal.